Sunday, August 14, 2011

Montana to Kansas

Yes, yes, Kansas again.  This started out to be a brief stopping spot on our way to Louisiana for my dad's 90th birthday festivities.  But of course those squirrels keep popping up and we feel compelled to chase them, but more about that later.  First we need to relate the travels of the past couple of weeks.

We left off as we headed into Montana from Canada.  It was a joy to return to the U.S. and get use of our data plans again - I think Heinz was having withdrawal from the iPad.  We headed south planning on spending a week in Glacier National Park, then changed our minds and headed for Yellowstone National Park instead.  Unfortunately, we stopped for a couple of cheeseburgers at McDonald's in Missoula, MT.  Those $1 burgers got a little more expensive when Heinz hit a low overhang and had to stop over a couple of nights to do some minor repair work.  As they say, it's not if you'll do it, but when you'll do it.  We've got that pesky little faux-pas out of the way and can laugh about it now.

It wasn't a complete loss of time though.  I found a great store for fly tying supplies and got a little giddy amongst all the furs and feathers.  In the meantime, Heinz found and acquired an inflatable boat.  We stayed at our first KOA campground, Missoula KOA.  It was great - swimming pool, hot tubs, cafe with a great breakfast, and a staff that went out of their way to be sure we got what we needed in the way of ladders, etc. for our repair work.  The Missoula area and the Blackfoot River are beautiful and will definitely need further exploration in the future.

Leaving Missoula we headed off for Yellowstone National Park, and darn it, if there wasn't another squirrel crossing our path.  So we were off to Ennis, MT and the Madison River - famous for being the locations Norman MacLean wrote about in A River Runs Through It.  We found a great state campground on Ennis Lake that was free.  It only had nine spaces and no hook ups, but the tail end of the trailer was 10 feet or less from the water.

Along the way to Ennis

Whoa, this looks like an indication of too much snow for me!

Off to try out the new boat

Just a country scene

Around Ennis, MT

Lake Ennis

Sunset after a thunderstorm

Now this is camping by the water

Heinz tried his luck fishing, but nothing was biting but the mosquitoes - so we just relaxed and enjoyed our time in Ennis.  The town is small, quirky, and friendly.  There is no sales tax which was a nice change of pace.  Each business in town had at least a flower box or potted plants out front and at least 75% of them had some type of sculpture/art-work.

Fish sculpture at the entrance to one of the RV parks in Ennis

Leaving Ennis we finally traveled another hour or so down to the Yellowstone National Park area.  We decided to boondock once again and found a place at Beaver Creek Campground in the Gallatin National Forest on the west side of Yellowstone.  It was amazingly peaceful there.  The camp was not crowded at all and we had our pick of plenty of spots.  We chose one in the midst of a patch of wildflowers and set up camp.  
Outside the window at the campground

The next morning Heinz was out on the Madison River and Quake Lake trying his luck once again.  Quake Lake is a 190 feet deep, 6 mile long lake formed in 1959 when a 7.6 earthquake set off an 80 million ton landslide.  The landslide traveled down the south flank of Sheep Mountain, at an estimated 100 mph, killing 27 people who were camping in the area and creating a natural dam on the Madison River.  Now the lake is a favorite fishing spot in the Yellowstone area.  Alas, Heinz's luck was not good.  Not only did he not catch a fish, but one of the oarlocks on the new inflatable boat broke, leaving him out on the lake with one oar int he wateer, with a storm approaching.  He had to tie on to a tree while rigging a makeshift oarlock from rope - then rowed back into a headwind back to the boat ramp.  Needless to say, he was not cheerful when he got home.

The wildflowers in the area were spectacular.  According to the camp host, there had been a great show earlier in the summer, followed by a dry spell.  Then more rain came and the flowers were prolific again.  I have put in a couple of shots here, but I am having so much fun taking photos of all the wildflowers I've seen along this trip that I am now working on a wildflower album.  I'll let everyone know when I get it complied, labeled, and posted in Photobucket.

Indian Paintbrush

Common Harebells

We did take some time to visit Yellowstone National Park.  The western entrance to the park meanders along the Madison River past meadows, volcanic rocks, and LOTS of fly fishermen.  We drove into the park and over to the Lower Geyser Basin, the first of three basins that contain most of the world's geysers.  At the Lower Basin we got out and walked around the half-mile trail to the Fountain Paint Pot. This is a section of mud, 202 degrees, that is composed of clay and fine particles of silica broken down by acids and grinding action.  The pink and grey tinting of the mud is due to iron oxides.  The bubbling action results in escaping steam and gases.  In the spring and early summer the mud is thin and the pots boil, but by mid to late summer there is less moisture and the mud is thicker, creating the unusual shapes such as those shown here.  We also strolled past the Great Fountain Geyser which erupts on average to a height of 100 feet.

Fountain Paint Pot

Heinz in front of the Great Fountain Geyser

And what trip to Yellowstone would be complete without a visit to Old Faithful?  Quoting from a guidebook, "Contrary to popular belief, Old Faithful is not the tallest geyser in the park, nor even the most predictable; honors for regularity go to Riverside Geyser...The tallest geyser in the park, and in the world, is Steamboat Geyser."  Nevertheless, Old Faithful is impressive.  "Old Faithful erupts 17-20 times a day, with a show that lasts two to five minutes.  During each eruption it discharges roughly 4,000-8,000 gallon of water, shooting an average of 130 feet into the air."  While visiting the geyser we also poked our heads into the Old Faithful Inn, a massive building started in 1903 with a lobby fireplace built with 500 tons of stone.

Old Faithful getting started

Halfway there

Peak eruption

We spent 5 days in and around the Gallatin Forest, and Yellowstone Park.  Heinz was out on the water a great deal of the time, trying out the flies I was busily tying for him.  The fish, however, were not cooperating.  Though he had a number of bites, he only managed to bring home one small brown trout - it was teh first fish caught on a fly that I tied!!!!!!   Along the way he returned the inflatable boat and opted for a fly-fishing float tube instead.  But I've seen the look in his eye, he's lusting after an inflatable pontoon boat.  

The last day we were in the area Heinz took off for the lake and I headed into town for the 41st annual Yellowstone Rod Run, 500+ classic cars parading through the tiny town of West Yellowstone, ending up in the town park for viewing.  There were some pretty neat cars on display.  I have put a couple here, but there are lots more shots in the Montana Photobucket album.



Leaving out of the Yellowstone area, we headed east, driving all day to Rapid City, SD.  As we drove we saw more and more and more motorcycles...oops, this was the week of the Sturgis Bike Rally.  We managed to get a spot in the local KOA by the skin of our teeth.  One of their employees had a family emergency and had to leave that day so they rented us his camping spot for two nights.  Of course being that close to Sturgis (30 miles), we HAD to drive over and check out it out.  We both agreed that it was a much tamer scene than we had expected.  Lots of tents selling t-shirts, patches, and Harley Davidson gear, a ton of motorcycles on display and cruising the streets, and lots of vendors selling and installing accessories while you waited.  On the other hand, we expected a raunchier atmosphere at Sturgis than we got.  The crowd was very mellow and family oriented. almpst cpmservative - you can see more skin in San Francisco on just about any Saturday night than we saw while at Sturgis.  Oh well, we went, we watched, we bought the t-shirts.  You can check out the rest of the pictures on Photobucket.

Main Street, Sturgis MT, opening day of the Bike Rally

Following Sturgis, we drove on down here to Kansas.  As I said at the beginning of today's blog, we were heading down to Louisiana for my dad's birthday, but...Heinz's family is all gathering in Estes Park, CO for a few days, so we're off to chase that squirrel and will head down to Louisiana a week later than planned.  

Here's our friends of the day:

Mayfly during the hatch at Ennis Lake

Bald Eagles were prolific at Quake Lake and the Madison River


















Thursday, August 4, 2011

Canada and Back

We have been in some lousy wifi spots, so sorry there's been so long a delay in posting.


Oh my, Canada is really something!  We left Lake Louise and headed up the Icefields Parkway to Jasper National Park in central Alberta.   The journey up the parkway is billed as one of the world’s most spectacular drives.  Even on a dreary, rainy day we could see the splendor.  The road is 143 miles that traces the Continental Divide, and showcases 100 glaciers along the Canadian Rockies. 

As we moved north we stopped at some of the major sights.  As a result, the drive took around 6 hours to make the 143 miles - but it was well worth it.  I could spend lots of words describing the sights, but as they say…a picture is worth a thousand words.

Starting up the Icefields Parkway in the rain


Crowfoot Glacier, named this because when first seen, there was a third line of ice along the bottom, but the glacier is melting due to global warming. 


Peyto Lake, the water is such a brilliant green-blue as it is formed from glacial run-off.


Bridal Veil Falls


Tip of Athabasca Glacier, one edge of the Columbia Icefield.  The icefield is 1200 feet deep in places and covers a total of 83 square miles.

Further along the parkway we spotted the Tangle Creek Falls and had to stop to take some more pictures.  Of course, our decision was made a little easier when we spotted two more vintage Airstreams in the parking area.  So we quickly turned off to have our own miniature impromptu Airstream rally.  Turns out that the other two had spotted each other and pulled off to talk.  Naturally we all had to stand out in the rain to chat for 30 minutes before taking tours of each other’s trailers.




Tangle Creek Falls


L to R: 1962 Globetrotter (Minnesota), 1961 Bambi (Canada), 1974 Excella 500 (us)

We finally made it to Whistlers Campground at Jasper National Park outside of Jasper, Alberta and got our place…boondocking at its finest, tucked into a stand of aspens with a peek at the mountaintops over them.  The campground, one of 4 in the park, has 782 sites (493 without hookups and 289 with hookups).  We got a spot at the last minute due to a cancellation!  The park itself is one of the largest protected natural areas in North America, spanning 4,200 square miles.  There are elk everywhere, including just outside our trailer windows, along with mountain goats and bears roaming through the countryside and campgrounds.

Home sweet home among the aspens

The first night in Jasper we took a little time to check out the town and settle in.  We also met up with Buzz and Pam (our mates from Calgary and Banff) for a stroll around the park.  Pam and I spotted a patch of wild strawberries and popped a few in our mouths.  Wow, I know now why the bears like them so much!  I have NEVER tasted a strawberry that had flavor quite so intense and sweet.  Amazing for something that small, the biggest ones were maybe ¼” across.  As Heinz pointed out, it would take me quite a while to pick enough to make a pie…needless to say, I didn’t pick that many, but I did go home with stained fingers and tongue.

Wild strawberries, tiny, but fabulous

The next morning the four of us planned to try for a bike ride around Lac Beauvert.  That didn’t quite work out due to us missing each other on the way over to our agreed meeting site and a steady drizzle about the time we finally did manage to meet up.  So instead we took off for Maligne Canyon for a nice hike.   The canyon is a 165 foot gorge carved out by the Maligne River.  The hike is along the river and crosses the river 6 times over various bridges.

Maligne River and Canyon


5th Bridge over the Maligne River is a suspension bridge.

Later that afternoon Heinz and I went up to Maligne Lake to look around.  The road passes by Medicine Lake.  The First Nations people called this lake Magic Lake because they believed it is inhabited by spirits.  This is because the lake fills with water from the snow run-off, and then the water level mysteriously drops as summer goes on - there is no river or creek outlet.  In some years, the lake completely empties - only then can one see that the lake drains though underground channels.  Once again, we were caught by the rain and didn’t bother to hike around either lake.

We were up early the next day to head out for breakfast and the Jasper Tramway up Whistlers Mountain.  This is Canada’s highest and longest aerial tramway.  It starts at a height of 4,279 ft. and rises to 7,472 ft.  After you reach the end of the tram ride, there is still the hike to the mountain summit of 8,088 ft.  Whew, at that altitude the climb is sloooowww…with lots of stops for breathing.  But, boy, is the view worth it.

Jasper Tramway headed up Whistlers Mountain


Trail to the summit…8,088 feet above sea level


View from the summit…Jasper in the valley, Lac Beauvert is the emerald lake to the upper right, Athabasca River to the right, Victoria Cross mountain range in the distance (each mountain is named for a recipient of the Victoria Cross).

On our last full day in Jasper we joined Buzz and Pam for a hike up Mount Edith Cavell.  Named for an English nurse executed by the Germans for espionage during WWI, the mountain is 11,033 feet high and famous for its alpine meadows and wing-shaped Angel Glacier.  We hiked as far as the glacier and Cavell Lake with floating icebergs.

Mount Edith Cavell from the town of Jasper


Angel Glacier above Clavell Lake


Icebergs in Clavell Lake

After we came down from the mountain, Heinz and I headed east to the Miette Hot Springs.  The water comes out of the mountainside at 129 degrees and before filling two different wading pools, is cooled to 103 degrees and 118 degrees.  There are also two cooling pools, at 51 and 64 degrees.  This was a great place to relax and let the aches and pains soak away.  It was pretty cool to see the age range and dress styles of the folks in the pools...grandmas and grandpas to babes in arms and skimpy bikinis (down, Heinz!) to ladies in long sleeves and long pants.

The next morning we were up early and heading for the U.S.  We drove back down the Icefields Parkway and headed slightly west into the Kootenai National Park, crossing into Montana late that evening.  We spent the night in Kalispell, but nothing interesting to report there except we took time to eat at the Sizzler and do laundry (yawn).


Athabasca Glacier from the north

Lake in Kootenai National Park, Canada

We'll catch you up on our Montana adventures on the next posting.

If you're interested, the remaining Canada pictures are on Photobucket starting on page 8 of the Canada album.

In the meantime, here's our friends (and idiots) of the day.