Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Virginia and points north


Wow, time is streaming by at a rapid pace.  It’s been two weeks since I posted and feels like about 3 days.

As I mentioned in our last post, we made it to Virginia after a wonderful three weeks in Tennessee.  We started out from the Wautaga Dam and headed for the Blue Ridge Parkway. Heinz thought it would be nifty to drive the Parkway in the RV (towing the Honda), so we scheduled 3 days to complete it, figuring on roughly 100 miles per day driving distance.  Several people, including me, had told him that it would be a slow drive due to the twisting road (read: may not be the best idea), but you know the German mentality.  Well, after covering 70 miles in 5 hours Heinz admitted that driving a 40 ft. RV (plus toad) was not really a whole lot of fun.  With all the curves and hills, not to mention the 35-45 mph speed limits, he had absolutely no time to enjoy the views along the drive.  When we encountered a road construction detour that took us off the Parkway, we took full advantage of the opportunity/excuse and headed for the Interstate.  But the Parkway section that we did drive was absolutely gorgeous with scenic overlooks about every mile or so.  It would be a perfect drive in a car - even better still on a  motorcycle!

Overlook on the Blue Ridge Parkway

We arrived in Roanoke late on a Friday afternoon, two days before we had planned to be there.  We pulled into the parking lot of a Camping World on the edge of town and went in to get a Rand McNally GPS 7710 - a model designed for RV use.  While checking out, Heinz asked the clerk where we could find a good campground for us to spend the night.  Her reply was, "Right where you're at, just stay in the parking lot" - so we did.  

We had begun to hear strange swishing noises in the power steering system as we pulled into Roanoke, so the next day Heinz went back into Camping World to speak with the technicians. They recommended another shop in town since they had no mechanics trained in that kind of work - we'd have to wait till Monday to get it checked out.  Camping World invited us to stay in their parking lot over the weekend, and pointed out their dump station if we needed to drain tanks or fill up with water.  Since it was a free spot for 3 nights, we smiled and took them up on the offer.  We spent Saturday poking around Roanoke, checking out the City Market area, a British sports car meet, hanging out at Panera's sipping coffee, and going to the movies (The Avengers).  

Sunday we hopped in the car and drove over to Appomattox Court House National Park.  Think back to your American History days and remember the Civil War lectures (if you’re Southern, just remember, period).  Appomattox Court House is where Gen. Robert E. Lee surrendered the Army of Northern Virginia to General Ulysses S. Grant, effectively ending the Civil War.  Over the years after the surrender, the village slowly died away, the buildings either burned down (the courthouse) or began to disintegrate (houses-including the McLean house where the surrender was signed).  In the 1930’s Congress bought the land and after WWII, work was begun to rebuild/restore many of the houses and outbuildings.  In 1954, the area was designated a National Historic Park.  Today the village looks much the same as it did in April 1865.  

McLean House (reconstruction), site of Lee's surrender

Volunteer re-enacting the role of a US infantryman telling about the surrender.

On the way home from Appomattox, we stopped in Bedford, VA to see the National WWII D-Day Memorial.  This is an amazing and moving place.  The memorial is on 88 acres at the top of a hill outside Bedford.  We took a guided tour of the grounds and got a much-appreciated explanation of all the imagery and the symbolism of the various spots within the layout. 

The grounds are laid out in a manner that reflects a narrative chronology beginning with the planning and preparation for D-Day in England.  Quoting from the Memorial’s brochure: “With its circular folly, symmetrical sculpture and decorative plantings, the Memorial’s northernmost component, establishes England as the starting point.  The folly’s Classical Revival form nods in the direction of the architecture of both Norfolk House at London and Southwick House at Portsmouth, where much of the planning for D-Day occurred.”  This area includes a larger than life-sized statue of Gen. Eisenhower, busts of all the other top brass, and a flower garden in the design and colors of the “SHAEF” patch (Supreme Headquarters Allied Expeditionary Force) worn by members of the command unit.

As you move through the Memorial you next come to the Invasion Plaza, with the ground divided into five segments representing the five beaches invaded on D-Day and surrounded by wall plaques bearing the names of all Allied personnel killed that day.  At one end of the plaza are elevations representing the casemates and bunkers encountered by the invading forces and a pool of water with hedgehogs (German obstacles used to scuttle landing craft, not little furry critters).  There are sculptures of men crossing the water, dying on the water’s edge and scaling the wall.  The pool contains fountain spray heads adjusted to simulate the impact of enemy gunfire - they are set to randomly explode.  In addition, there is a noisy waterfall by the viewing bridge leading the viewer to have a symbolic sense of the chaos and noise of the invasion.  The plaza is flanked on either side by monuments to the Air, Coast Guard and Naval forces taking part in the invasion.   I didn’t know it until our tour, but the Coast Guard were in charge of sailing the landing craft on D-Day due to their expertise with small boats.  The middle sculpture of the men climbing the wall leads up to the Victory Plaza dominated by the Overlord Arch.  The arch is topped with the black and white stripes used on all aircraft flown by the Allies to easily differentiate them from enemy aircraft in the heat of the battle.

Invasion Plaza

 
Invasion Plaza

Overlord Victory Arch

There is LOTS more symbolism in the Memorial, so if you’re ever in the area, be sure to stop in and see this commemoration. 

Once Monday came around, we got the rig checked out and fixed, but that took most of the day, so we spent one more night in Roanoke.  Tuesday, we packed up and headed out to Charlottesville, VA.  We spent two nights in the Charlottesville KOA there, a peaceful, woodsy location a few miles outside of town.  While there, we spent several hours at Monticello, home of Thomas Jefferson.  We took full advantage of all the guided tours on offer, including the garden, and the downstairs and upstairs tour (just recently added) of the house. 

Monticello.  
Did you know that this famous view is actually the back of the house?

We also spent an afternoon driving the Skyline Drive through the Shenandoah National Park (leaving the RV parked this time!).  Formed from over 1,000 privately owned tracts of land the Shenandoah started as a patchwork of forest, fields, orchards, and home sites and was dedicated as a national park in 1935.  Have you ever noticed how many of our national parks and monuments were dedicated during the years of the Great Depression?  This park along with many others was a worksite of the Civilian Conservation Corps, a make-work program of the Depression era that put unemployed young men to work building roads, hiking trails, visitor centers, and monuments throughout the national park system.  Workers were  paid $30/month, of which $25 was sent home to help support their families, and $5 issued to the employee.  My own dad was a proud employee of the CCC’s, working at Colorado’s National Monument outside Grand Junction.

Shenandoah Valley from Skyline Drive

Tunnel along Skyline Drive built by CCC boys

Next stop: Washington DC.  We stayed at the Fort Meade FamCamp in Maryland and took the Metro into downtown Washington for several days. 

We spent our first full day wandering the National Mall looking at the various monuments, even taking the time and energy to walk around the Tidal Basin to view the Jefferson Memorial up close.  It was a beautiful spring day, warm, sunny, and relatively un-crowded as it was a workday and schools were not yet out for the summer.  It was also a peaceful day, drifting from monument to monument while discussing history and philosophizing, not hard to do when surrounded by monuments to great men who accomplished great deeds and average Joes just doing their duty.  Altogether we spent time at the Lincoln Memorial, Vietnam Veterans Memorial, Signers of the Declaration of Independence Memorial, WWII Memorial, Washington Monument, Thomas Jefferson Memorial, Franklin Roosevelt Memorial, Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial, Korean War Veterans Memorial, and the Women’s Memorial.

Lincoln Memorial

Washington Monument

Jefferson Memorial

Designed by Maya Lin in 1982, the Vietnam Memorial caused major controversy with many calling it a "black gash of shame."  Her concept was that the wall would be a quiet protected place in the midst of the city bustle.  The walls have a mirror-like surface of black granite reflecting the images of the surrounding trees, lawns, monuments, and visitors, leading a visitor to see that the names inscribed will always be reflected in memory.  The walls stretch into the distance toward the Washington Monument and the Lincoln Memorial and inscribed in chronological order by date of casualty are the dead and missing.  Names begin on July 8, 1959 and end on May 15, 1975.  Ironically, despite the initial controversy, the Vietnam Veterans Memorial is now the most visited memorial on the National Mall.

The Vietnam Veterans Memorial, aka, the Wall. 

Due to public pressure for a “traditional” memorial, in 1984 the planning committee added a sculpture sitting slightly above and facing the Wall.  The three figures are clothed in uniforms with no insignia or rank, representing all services and ranks that served.  There have been multiple interpretations of the meaning of the sculpture with the top three being that the men are coming out of the jungle and stopping in disbelief at the number of names on the Wall; that the men are stopping to look for their own names on the Wall; or that it is simply the “thousand yard stare” of combat veterans.

The Three Servicemen

Starting from the day it was dedicated many visitors have left items at the wall.  Over the years, items ranging from flowers and food to cigarettes, love letters, and even a Harley-Davidson motorcycle have been left.  All items except food and flowers are collected daily and placed in a warehouse for preservation.


Tribute left at the Wall.

Dedicated to the women who served in the Vietnam War, Vietnam Women's Memorial depicts three uniformed women tending a wounded soldier.  The figure looking up is Hope, the woman praying (not seen in photo) is Faith and the woman tending to the soldier is Charity.


Vietnam Women's Memorial

The next morning saw us up, rubbing our sore feet and heading out to Dulles Airport and the new Smithsonian National Air and Space Museum.  This is a fascinating place with displays of aircraft from the Wright brothers to the space shuttle Challenger.  We planned on spending around three hours exploring and ended up leaving when they closed the doors on us.   Unfortunately, our fascination with the aircraft meant that we were too late to get into the National Cathedral and Arlington Cemetery, our original plans for late afternoon.

Static display at the museum

Red Devil, 1911

Space shuttle Challenger seen behind the wing of an SR-71

Day three in Washington found us sleeping in a bit followed by visiting the National Museum of the American Indian.  We were both somewhat disappointed in this museum and didn’t feel that it met our expectations of quality usually associated with Smithsonian museums.  We wandered through the exhibits hoping to find something that would capture our interest, but it simply didn’t happen.  Many of the displays are dark with lights that reflect off the glass making it even more difficult to see the items.  The overall effect of the museum felt like a high school history project focusing on every tribe of the Americas (north and south), emphasizing the sociological impact of the white man on the Indians, rather than the culture of the peoples.  We thought by including every tribe of the Americas, the museum failed to paint a cohesive story of any sort.  Oh well, can’t win them all I guess.

Day four and we were off and running yet again.  This time we decided to take in the Textile Museum, The National Geographic Museum, and the Newseum.  Once again, we over-planned and never made it to the Newseum.  The Textile Museum was founded in 1925 with a collection of 275 rugs and related textiles.  It is now one of the world's most specialized art museums and receives over 35,000 visitors annually.  It is located in a mansion on Embassy Row.  On the day of our visit there were three special displays.  The first exhibit, "Dragons, Nagas, and Creatures of the Deep", presented a global selection of textiles depicting dragons and related creatures of legend.  The second exhibit, "Woven Treasures of Japan's Tawaraya Workshop", featured sumptuous pieces created in a 500 year-old workshop in Japan renowned for supplying the Japanese Imperial Household with silks for garments and furnishings.  The third exhibit consisted of original weavings made by textile artists who were invited to choose an object from the Textile Museum's collection and create a new artwork (inspired by it) in response.  I think I was a bit more fascinated with the museum than Heinz was.  :)

South American embroidery with dragons

Next we traveled down the road to the National Geographic Museum on the first floor of the Society’s office building.  This is truly a small gem of a museum and should be a “don’t-miss” if you’re visiting Washington.  That day there were special exhibits on Samurai history and the sinking of the Titanic.  Heinz and I both felt that in three rooms of the Samurai exhibit we learned more about the history and culture of the Samurai than we had about the American Indians in a four-story museum.  In addition, the museum has a rotating display of National Geographic Magazine photos.  Overall, the Samurai display was well worth the visit, but no pictures were allowed.  Though pictures were allowed, the Titanic display was... so-so.  

Model of the Titanic on the ocean bottom.


We’ve now moved north yet again and are set up at the Fort Dix FamCamp, Willow Pond RV Park.  We're here till about mid-June for our youngest daughter’s wedding, see a few sights, and knock out a couple of projects on the motorhome.  More to follow...













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